British Columbia

Kusshi

Still a rarity on East Coast menus, Kusshis are all the rage out West, due to their small size and ultra-clean flavor. Grown by Keith Reid, a highly innovative grower in Deep Bay, Kusshis are grown in floating trays and tumbled very aggressively. This breaks off the thin growing edge and forces them to deepen and thicken their shells. The resulting oyster, called a Kusshi, Japanese for “precious,” is almost as deep as it is long—just over two inches. The unusual cornucopia shape and stunning smooth purple-black shell are due to the tumbling, which smoothes off any frills. The depth and pillowy softness inside make the Kusshi resemble a Kumamoto, but it’s a plain-old Pacific that’s been tumbled into bonsai form.

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