New York and Connecticut

In the minds of many people, oysters and Bluepoints are synonymous. They feel that New York is the only city that counts and Bluepoint the only oyster worth asking for. The funny thing is that, in the two centuries since Bluepoints’ reputation was made, everything about the oyster has changed—except the name, which was always the most important part of its success. The original Bluepoints came from Long Island’s Great South Bay. But the oyster industry there died, done in by pollution and overfishing. By then the Bluepoint name had already migrated to Long Island Sound, which is where most Bluepoints come from today. New York’s best oysters, however, are snuggled within the forked fishtail of Long Island’s East End are Peconic Bay, Noyac Bay, and Gardiner’s Bay. The North Fork of Long Island is an eater’s paradise, from the porgies and bluefish and steamers to the farmer’s markets bursting with tomatoes and peaches to the wines, some of which—such as Lieb Cellars’ Pinot Blanc—are a natural match for the local oysters. A supply of supremely good oysters is increasingly flowing out of the East End, all from tiny operations.

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