Willapa Bay and Oregon

Oysterville Select

Hand-picked from the tidal flats—often in the dead of night, time of the best winter low-tides—these beauties from Oysterville Sea Farms are the pick of the Willapa litter, natural-set and carefully culled to impeccable standards for shell shape and meat quality. Dan Driscoll seemed like an iconoclast when he inherited a cannery building from his father in the early 1990s and focused on select oysters for half-shell service; now he just seems ahead of his time—an odd quality for the moldering ghost town of Oysterville. The gray-shingled Oysterville Sea Farms building, which is on the National Register of Historic Places and looks like it, teeters on the wind-swept edge of the bay.

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