A big, sandy-colored oyster that is gaining in popularity, no doubt because of the lively name. Tatamagouche is a charming little fishing village on the Northumberland Straits, and I suspect its oysters are all wild, because they rarely possess the perfect almond shape of farmed ones. In fact, they are often long, skinny shoehorns, and the meat can be watery and tasteless. It can also, however, be extremely choice, ivory-colored and nutty, with a lot of body and medium brine. Tatamagouches are available May through early winter, but avoid them in summer, when they can be spawny.